You know what I love about New Orleans? The energy. Much like New York, there’s electricity in the air that fuels the city. You can feel it in the people you meet, your conversations, and especially in the experiences.
Have you ever been?
Why I Wanted to Travel to New Orleans
I went a month ago for the very first time and I can still feel the current flowing from my weekend trip. If it’s not the brass band concerts that go on to the wee hours in the morning, the food will give you a jolt.
When my love and I started planning the trip, I knew I wanted to go to tourist attractions like Bourbon Street. But make no mistake, I was going for the food and the top place on my list was Dooky Chase’s Restaurant.
Located in the Tremé section of New Orleans, the former sandwich shop has been in business since 1941. A family-owned restaurant, Leah Chase — the main reason I wanted to eat at the restaurant — was the owner and chef. Known as the “Queen of Creole Cuisine,” she passed away this summer in June. It was a sad day. And low-key, I wished I had the opportunity to taste food made with her hands, but my visit changed that.
Why I Wanted to Eat at Dooky Chase’s Restaurant
I became obsessed with Chase when I learned she was the inspiration behind “Tiana and the Frog.” And before I even made it into the main dining room, I was filled with the same joy that I had watching the Disney movie.
In a drawing in the vestibule, Tiana looks at Chase with admiration in her eyes. She’s holding a ladle of what I assume is gumbo while Chase stirs the pot while looking at the camera. In a message bubble, Tiana says, “Thank you so very much Mrs. Chase for ALL your inspiration! You are the REAL Princess of New Orleans.”
Within minutes of being at the restaurant, my love and I both felt honored to be eating there. The photos of our forever president, Barack Obama, fixing a napkin as he prepared to dig in helped. So did the warm greeting of Chase’s family who used the word “y’all” that made us both feel seen (and at home). The same is true for the atmosphere.
What It Was Like to Eat at Dooky Chase Restaurant
In a room behind us, birthday balloons floated above party hats and endless smiles. In a gold dining room, the pace seemed slower and when I peeked inside, it was quiet. But in the main dining room, where we were seated, there was a rhythm of sorts through the service. Artwork and panels of stained glass featuring brown faces adorned red-painted walls. My favorite painting was of two young musicians; one blowing a horn and the other mimicking him. No instrument in sight, but his cheeks are swollen with air. A gold chandelier hung high over a group of girlfriends whose laughter filled the room. Couples, my love and I included, spoke softly between bites of warm garlic bread.
Over the speaker, gospel music and Stevie Wonder’s “My Cherie Amor” made me sway as I surveyed the room. My love noted, “it feels like dressed-up church, but fancy” and I agreed. As I sat on the red and white banquet-style seats, I noticed a hat seated on one; hidden out of most people’s line of sight. It was a bucket hat that read “Let’s make America great again.” My thoughts went straight to the movie when Tiana’s dad spoke about his goal for his restaurant.
“You know the thing about good food? It brings folks together from all walks of life,” he said. “It warms them up and brings a smile on their faces. And when I open up my own restaurant, people are going to line up for miles to get a taste of my food.”
What We Ordered Off the Menu
It’s clear that Chase and her family accomplished that. So much so, that my love who stopped eating shellfish when he was a boy because of a slight reaction, risked it all for a bowl of gumbo. With eyes closed, mouth full, the sound of “mmmmm” rang out while he smacked his lips. Though he hates sharing food, he eagerly passed me his spoon so that I could taste it. To me, it was the workings of spicy perfection. The smoked sausage was my favorite bite, but paired with the chicken, seafood, and other ingredients, the bowl was the perfect starter for our entrées.
My love ordered fried chicken with a side of mac and cheese. After one bite, he gave the food a rating that I’m not going to lie, made me a little jealous. “It doesn’t even need anything,” he said. “This is the first chicken I didn’t need to put hot sauce on.” And you should know he puts hot sauce on everything before tasting it. He liked that the chicken wasn’t overwhelmed by breading; It was light making his breast, thigh, and drumstick even more flavorful. He ranked it among the top three places to eat fried chicken on a mental list he’s been keeping.
I ordered Shrimp Clemenceau, which our server, Martinique, suggested saying it’s her favorite. She described it as shrimp scampi made with potatoes instead of pasta. Sold. In a white china dish adorned with gold scrawl, large shrimp lay atop of a bed of mushrooms and diced potatoes. Peas nestle beside the spuds, which were too flavorful to be regular old russet potatoes. Golden with color, they were sturdy enough to hold a forkful of the contents. I enjoyed the subtle heat at the end of each bite, which I expect in New Orleans. And to finish it off, a sprinkle of fresh parsley added extra color (and flavor) to the dish.
Beyond satisfied, we walked back to the French Quarter without ordering dessert. Though, we would have stuffed ourselves for a slice of strawberry shortcake if they had it that day. On the way back to the hotel, I thought about my initial thoughts when I learned of Chase’s passing.
Of course, I wanted to taste food made from her hands, but dinner that night reminded me of the power of good recipes. Not only do they connect people, but they have the ability to transcend space and time. To me, that meal in that dining room, was the epitome of the energy and spirit of the city as well as the people.
I’m grateful to have been able to experience Chase’s contributions to all that makes New Orleans what it is today.
